Upstream Health Solutions

In all the hype surrounding alpha and beta hydroxy acids, you may have heard some of the following myths. Don’t be fooled. For the best advice, see your doctor or dermatologist.

You will see results — almost overnight. Wrong. While you might notice softer skin within a week or two, hydroxy acids take months to make noticeable changes in sun spots, liver spots and freckles. Expect to continue your acid regimen for about six months before you see any reduction in fine lines. Chemical peels might offer quicker results.

The results are permanent. It appears that the positive results will fade if you stop using the product.

Hydroxy acids help rebuild skin cells for a younger-looking you. Used in conjunction with retinol, you may see new collagen production. But that’s the retinol working, not the acid. The acids simply exfoliate the skin, making it easier for the retinol to permeate the layers. Acids alone will not promote skin rejuvenation.

They are perfectly safe. While acids are relatively mild and safe, they can cause allergic reactions and can hyperpigment darker skin. In a program of chemical peels, the concentration of acids should be increased over time instead of used at high concentration during the first procedure. Also important to note: These acids are not considered a drug and are not regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.

Kiss wrinkles goodbye. Acids may help reduce the appearance of fine lines over the long haul, but they will not make skin significantly more taut or make deep wrinkles disappear.

Reduce your risk of skin cancer. There is no evidence to suggest using acids will reduce your skin cancer risk.

They’re all natural. This may be true of some acids, but it doesn’t make them any better than manufactured varieties, doctors say. “Poison ivy is all natural, but you don’t rub it on your skin,” said Dr. Dee Anna Glaser, an associate professor of dermatology at St. Louis University.

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